The Last Stop: Crete

We're finishing up our summer trip in Crete, the largest of the 6,000 Greek islands.  We've taken it easy here, but we did traipse around 2 old cities.  Come to find out, everyone and their brother has wanted, and taken, a piece of Crete.  Romans, Byzantines, Andalusian Muslims, Venetians, Ottomans.  They've come and gone, but they've left their remnants and remembrances.  Fun Fact: Crete joined up with Greece under its own accord in 1913.

Venetian Port, Chania

Minaret - Rethymno Mosque

Nazi bombing of Crete 1941 - Rethymno

Today we drove out to see the Ancient Olive Tree of Vouves. This olive tree is between 3000 and 5000 years old.  It's probably safe to say that the tree is 4,000 years old.  It's a stunning tree, but it doesn't rest on its laurels.  It's still offering its olives to the Cretans. I love this tree a lot. I wish I could live inside it for the rest of my life.

In conclusion, Crete has history everywhere you look.  I could have learned more, but we mostly focused on water activities such as swimming or eating at seaside restaurants.  We've had a delightful time, but all good things must come to an end.  We leave tomorrow morning for a day of travel back to our Hoosier home where in a few short months, we'll elect our next president, Kamala Harris.  Let's go!!!!

Ta leme argotera, Crete.  See you next time!

                                                           

The Third Stop: Athens

Athens has been wonderful in some ways, challenging in others.  Let me explain. 

 We got caught up in the airline shutdown fiasco of '24, and did not arrive to our Athens hotel until 2:30 in the morning.  We had ferry tickets for the morning so we hardly slept that first night. We got to the ferry on time, but a British man named Nick sat next to us and talked non-stop. Lucky for me, Husbandman, with his superior conversational skills, dealt with Nick while I applied laser focus to my book.

We loved Hydra.  There are no cars allowed on Hydra.  Some people use donkeys.  We chose to walk.  We found a beautiful place for swimming and mocktails where we lounged for a good long while. We had no water shoes, so we had to walk across burning stones to the sea whenever we wanted to get back in the water.  Imagine a bed of hot coals.  After swimming, we headed to a delightful lunch spot on a shady terrace overlooking the port.  Greece gets high points for veggie friendly, tasty food items.  I love the food here.

The heat has been tough this week.  Not going to lie. I suspect I may have a serious heat intolerance condition.  Or I could just be pathetically out of shape. Not sure. Either way, the heat caused some changes in my typical tourism routines.

We did go to the Museum of Cycladic Art where we saw a terrific Cindy Sherman exhibit and learned about the artists who made these figurines.  From 2700 BC to about 2300 BC they were all made pretty much the same.  But then some wiseacres introduced variations. Moving one arm slightly akimbo for example.  I loved these figures and have nothing but appreciation for the ancient Creatives of the Cyclades.

We went to the Acropolis but the heat and the crowds were super unpleasant.  10 years ago, Husbandman and I came to Athens in February.  At that time I walked to the Acropolis twice in one week. No crowds at all.  Stray dogs lazing about.  A few small groups of tourists walking around chatting. Delightful.  But this time, my heat intolerance and social anxiety caused me to nearly have a cardiac arrest. That said, the Parthenon is crazy impressive.  It was built around 450 BC. You should go there if you feel like it.  Don't let my ridiculous heat intolerance stop you.

Husbandman has been working this week, grueling away at mathematics.  His colleague loaned us a cool, charming apartment near the city center.  Last night we walked out to this wonderful restaurant.  Another amazing meal.

We go to Crete tomorrow, the final stop of the journey.  

We've had our ups and downs, Athens, but I'm not mad at you. 

And we will return.  

But not in the summer. 

Antio kai efcharisto! 

The Second Stop: Seville

 

Seville is beautiful with a wild history.  We toured some mind blowing World Heritage Sites. I loved Real Alcazar and the Cathedral. Palace of Las Duenas is not a world heritage site, yet, but if you feel like it you should definitely go there. 

The heat has been a challenge, but Husbandman and I have figured out how to do the right amount of stuff each day so that neither of us gets heatstroke. Our hotel has a pool, so a late afternoon swim has been part of our routine.  

The food has been another challenge.  I'm a vegetarian who will eat a shrimp or an oyster if placed right in front of me.  Rarely, but yes, I do it.  (Please don't kick me out of the vegetarian club because of this. Cut me some slack why don't you?)  Seville serves a lot of fishy fish that I do not care for.  They mostly serve a ton of meat products.  They are big on meat here. Meat prepared every which way. 

  Croquettes are also frequently on the menu.  I loved the veggie croquettes we ate at Elsa and Fred, but, come to find out, most croquettes are meaty. Ever hopeful for the possibility of veggie croquettes, I asked a waiter at  Pasaje about them.  He replied haltingly,  "They are filled with.... how would you say it.... it does not sound good.... but it is good...they are filled with blood." 

Blood.  Seriously? 

Seville, we loved our time with you despite the food issues. You're super friendly and beautiful.

Adios and gracias! On to Athens.

The First Stop: Barcelona

 We've been staying in the Born area of Barcelona with narrow cobblestone streets and secret passages. Centuries old stone buildings and shady plazas.  

Have been noticing a lot of strolling happening around town.  Especially after a late dinner of tapas.  It's as if people didn't have a care in the world. 

I'd like to do more strolling of an evening when I get home, but I would prefer the Bloomington strolling to be more like Barcelona strolling where I'm with hundreds of others and I'm not walking alone down 1st Street on my way to Bryan Park like I'm the sheriff in a ghost town. 

Tangent:  Sagrada Familia didn't disappoint.  We loved the views from the top of the Passion Tower.  Good job, Gaudi.

In conclusion, we leave tomorrow morning for Seville.  I know comparison is the enemy of joy, but I fear that Seville won't be as good as Barcelona.  This place is super wonderful. Keep up the good work, Barcelona.  Well done!

The Non-Metropolitan Diary

Hoagy Carmichael lived here when he was a kid.  He wrote 100s of songs and 50 of them were big hits.    4 of Hoagy's songs are among the most recorded songs in history.  And yes, he was born right here in our town and is buried over in Rose Hill Cemetery. I walked by his house while taking my 5th history walk of the summer. 

On a meandering walk south of campus I came across this eye-catching mural which I believe is new.  I've never seen it before and I've walked next to my dentist's office a bunch of times.  I'm sure I would have noticed it. Bloomington is really upping their mural game.  Keep it up, B-town.  Way to support #publicART!

Wednesday Surprise:  Music at The Elm with John Raymond and Jeremy Allen 

As you can see from these photos, I've been traipsing around town doing my best and forgetting the rest. 

Mitzker and I were happy as all get out to see John Raymond and Jeremy Allen playing music at The Elm when we popped in for dinner on Wednesday evening.

I know of these two jazz cats because a). Jeremy Allen was #1 Son's spectacular bass professor at Jacobs School and b.) John Raymond, also a Jacobs School professor, played his tremendous trumpet with #1 Son at a Jazz Kitchen show last year. I also have a sweet connection to a younger member of the Raymond fam. 

On our way out after a delightful dinner, I stopped to take a photo of the players.  A couple nearby gestured me over to their table. "Ma'am, ma'am," the man whispered as I was walking by.  I leaned  toward them and he said, "The bass player is our son." 

I felt a chill, a zip and a zing.  Their pride was palpable and so was mine when I gushed back, "Well, YOUR son was MY son's teacher. We are very fond of YOUR son. He was so good to our son Quinn who is now... a bass player...in Asheville North Carolina!"  I ended my gushing with a flourish.  The mom clapped her hands.  The dad said, "That's great, that's great."  

Mitz and I said adieu and then I floated off to my car, happy about my membership in  the PPBB-- short for Proud Parents of Bloomington Bassists.  This serendipitous meetup made me think of the Metropolitan Diary pieces that NYT readers send in about their walks around town.  Then I remembered this blog and decided that writing about it here could work just fine.

FYI:  Jeremy Allen and John Raymond will be playing at the ELM on Wednesdays through July. You should see them if you feel like it.